By RegoPark
Contributing Blogger
DAY 1: My request for a hand inspection of my film is readily granted at Nashville International Airport. (Security is required by U.S. law to grant it; I have no rights or luck anywhere in Europe.) One of six disposable cameras, undeveloped and never before used, mysteriously sets off the alarm and a passport and Russian visa isn’t adequate ID; I have to give the guards my home address. The big guys in rubber gloves give me two options: break the camera apart or run it through the X-ray. I choose the latter. (The cameras go through hand inspection in Cincinnati, JFK and Norfolk without incident.)
DAY 2: St. Petersburg, Russia. My passport, visa and migration card are temporarily surrendered at the hotel for registry with the police. To get rubles, my passport number is fed into Mother Russia’s database at the neighborhood currency exchange. Orientation assistants at my 2-week literary seminar warn us to have copies of official papers on our person at all times; cops can stop you and inspect them for any reason.
FIRST WEEK: Not exactly thinking about anything Drudge out in fabulous St. Pete. Two members of our group are seen laughing lightheartedly on Nevsky Prospekt (the city’s main artery and tourist central) at 3 a.m. outside a club. Not appearing horribly Russian. Cops frisk and interrogate them until it’s clear these foreigners are neither drunk nor rich enough to bribe them.
SECOND WEEK: I spend America’s Independence Day reading poetry at a smoky club in St. Petersburg. Outside a joint like this, a fellow workshop member has his backpack seized by policemen who decide it looks suspicious. The bag contains his cellphone, airline tickets and everything else. Anyone overstaying a Russian visa can be prevented from leaving the country until a fine is paid. I’m not sure how this situation got resolved.
LAST DAY IN RUSSIA: Pulkovo Airport screens baggage twice: upon entering the airport and at departure gates. That’s as organized as they get. The currency exchange office is closed for “technical reasons” and the authorities tell me I must either return to the city or spend the dough at the airport. It’s illegal to take Russian currency out of the country. With little time to spare, I fill up on mineral water and buy lots of calendars and postcards, leaving all my extra kopecks with an annoyed shop clerk.
OVERNIGHT AT HEATHROW: A few days after the subway bombings, I nix plans to spend a few hours in the city and snooze on a bench with other “independent” travelers as robo-bobbies make their early morning rounds sporting flak jackets and nifty green A-Ks. After the usual security checkpoint, passengers are patted down at the departure gate and all carry-on bags are hand-inspected.
Apparently, a 2-month seat reservation and 2-hour-early check-in isn’t enought to keep American Airlines from switching my seat on me. Nor is the “seating assistant” fazed by my claustrophobia and my concern that I could have a panic attack in the air. In these days of air rage, why would any airline want to risk that? What if my 5-seat row on the Airbus is more than my phobia can handle? What if the flight attendants freak when they see me getting nervous? I’m ready to get in touch with my inner bitch.
But instead of screaming at them, I think of what Drudge would do…and do the opposite. I spend the most torturous flight I have ever endured, taking every moment possible to tie up the airplane toilet (more elbow room). The only person suffering more than I is the fat Hasidic guy next to me, struggling in the child-sized economy seat rubbing next to a strange woman in shorts. In deference to my seatmate, I cover my knees with my jacket and scoot to the opposite side of my seat so I’ll bump into the other guy instead.
At what point would good old Drudge lose it? When would the absence of American-style civil libs be more for him to bear?
LAST NIGHT: Matt Drudge waxes poetic on the “spiritual shift” that’s been moving right since 9-11. “In the randomness of your daily life,” he asks callers, “do you think it’s right (to be asked at random to have your backpack searched)?”
A newsflash flares up mid-show: Someone chucks a backpack at an Amtrak ticket agent in New York’s Penn Station, claiming it has a bomb. The place is cleared out.
“If you’re searched,” Matt holds out, “your guilt is assumed and you have to work backward…We’re a civilization that doesn’t quite trust our citizens. You don’t know who somebody is anymore. Maybe it would help if you could be sure the people around you were citizens.”
Part of me agrees with Matt, wants him as my libertarian angel as I travel. Part of me is damned glad he’s not my travel partner.
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